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Choosing the Perfect Fabric for Lingerie & Swimwear Designs: Unraveling the Mystery`

Today, we're jumping into an integral part of the fashion design process that often leaves many in a tangle - selecting the perfect fabric for your lingerie and swimwear designs.


A magenta and coral lace babydoll displayed on a dressform.
A babydoll designed for our client, Mentionables. It features satin ties, mesh, galloon lace, and edge lace.

Specifically, we're focusing on how to decide on materials for lingerie and swimwear - areas where comfort, functionality, and aesthetics must harmoniously intertwine. Before we swim into fashion design fabric sourcing, let’s chat about what we’ve already shared a bit before on this topic.


In a previous post, we discussed the basics of sourcing to put you into the designer's mindset.


In part two, we explained how to prepare for material sourcing. We touched upon various factors you should consider while looking for the perfect fabrics for your fashion brand, including the look, feel, fiber content, weight, stretch, additional qualities, cost, and availability. In case you missed it, you can find that post here. Now, it’s time to move on to the fun part of this post.



Selecting the right fabric for your lingerie or swimwear designs.


1. Consider the Look and Feel of Your Lingerie and Swimwear Fabric:

An essential step in selecting suitable fabrics for your lingerie or swimwear designs is considering your piece's overall design intent and concept. The overall aesthetic is a great area to use your inspiration images to drive the direction.


Remember the physical properties of what you are trying to convey with the garment. For example, a silky stretch satin blended with luxurious lace is perfect for a romantic, sensual bra or lingerie set, while not ideal for a supportive and durable sports bra, which requires stretchy, high modulus, durable fabric like nylon-spandex knit with 4-way stretch.


Similarly, for swimwear, you would want a material that retains its shape and color when wet, like a nylon-spandex blend. You may need something with more drape or something with a shaping panel. Consider the placement and purpose to make sure the fabric is a fab fit.


2. Understanding Lingerie and Swimwear Base Materials:

It's important to research different types of fabrics and their properties. Take a look at our chart for a quick look at some common materials and their best uses:

A lilac purple eyelash lace.
Eyelash Lace

Material Name: The general type of fabric (e.g., satin, lace, mesh, etc.)

Image: Visual reference of the material:

Fiber Composition: The primary fiber(s) used in the fabric (e.g., cotton, nylon, polyester, etc.)

Stretch/Rigid: Indicate whether the fabric has stretch or is rigid.

Knit/Woven: Indicate whether the fabric is knitted or woven.

Best for (Lingerie/Swimwear/Both): Indicate whether this fabric is best used for lingerie, swimwear, or both.

Sustainable Options: If available, list any sustainable versions of the fabric (e.g., organic, recycled, etc.)

Cost Range: Indicate the approximate cost per yard using the $ system ($ = $1-2, $$ = $2-5, $$$ = $5-15, $$$$ = $15+)

Comments: Here, you can jot down any thoughts, observations, or special notes about the fabric.

​Material Name

Image

Fiber Composition

Stretch/Rigid

Knit/Woven

Properties

Best For

Sustainable Options

Cost

Comments

Allover Lace


Swatch of a bright orange allover lace with leaf motif

​Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

​Stretch or Rigid

Knit (varies by type)

Stretch, aesthetic appeal

Lingerie

​Recycled versions available

$$$

Commonly used for lingerie due to its feminine appeal

Cotton Lawn


A swatch of white cotton lawn fabric

​Cotton

Rigid

Woven

​Lightweight, softness, breathability

​Lingerie

Organic Cotton Lawn

$$

​Ideal for comfortable lingerie pieces

Edge Lace


Swatch of white scalloped edge lace

​Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

Stretch or Rigid

Woven

​Stretch, edge detailing

Lingerie

Recycled versions available

$$$

​Often used as a trim in lingerie pieces

Eyelash Lace


Swatch of lilac eyelash lace

Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

Rigid is more popular but stretch is available

Woven

​Delicate, aesthetic appeal

Lingerie

Recycled versions available

​$$$$

​Luxurious type of lace with distinctive 'eyelashes'

Galloon Lace


Swatch of black galloon lace with floral motifs

​Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

Stretch or Rigid

Woven

​Stretch, scalloped edges

​Lingerie

​Recycled versions available

$$$

​Versatile lace that is often used in lingerie designs

Mesh


Swatch of black mesh

Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

Stretch or Rigid

Knit

​Breathability, stretch

Both

​Recycled versions available

$$

Used for added breathability and stretch

Satin


Swatch of pink satin

​Polyester/Silk

Stretch or Rigid

Woven

Smoothness, sheen, drapability

Lingerie

Recycled versions available

$$$

​Provides a luxurious feel and look

Swimwear Tricot


Swatch of textured swimwear tricot

​Polyester/Nylon + Spandex

Stretch

Knit

​Durability, stretch, colorfastness

Swimwear

Recycled versions available

$$$

​Main material for swimwear due to its properties

Tulle


A swatch of coral tulle fabric

​Polyester/Nylon

Rigid

Woven

Lightweight, fine netting

Lingerie

Recycled versions available

$$

​Often used for decorative purposes in lingerie



Light grey blue texture swimwear Tricot
Textured Swimwear Tricot

Materials such as silk, satin, lace, cotton, and microfiber are popular for lingerie due to their softness, comfort, and breathability.


In contrast, swimwear commonly uses fabrics like nylon, polyester, and spandex for their stretch, durability, and quick-drying properties.




3. Don’t Forget to Factor in Fiber Content:

Choosing the right fiber content is crucial. Material fiber content is a great place to consider using recycled materials to improve your company's sustainability.


Think of fibers as the basic ingredients of your fabric recipe. They are the base of what you’re creating, and the final result highly depends on what you use here.


The finished fabric is like the finished dish—ready to consume. When planning your material goals, you want to ensure the fiber content matches how you want the garment to feel and react on the body.


Hot pink Georgette fabric
Georgette

Natural fibers are grown from the earth and offer wonderful characteristics and properties that have allowed us to use these materials for centuries. Cotton and bamboo are breathable and soft, perfect for comfortable undergarments, soft cup bras, and panties. Another natural fiber, linen has a slightly stiffer hand and is better suited for pajamas or sleepwear. Still, usually, linen feels best close to the body when it's blended with cotton or another soft natural fiber.


Synthetic fibers which are man-made, like polyester and nylon, offer strength, durability, and resilience, making them ideal for swimwear. Nylon is often the base of mesh and tulle, sometimes mixed with spandex to offer added stretch. Polyester is often used for satin and georgette, and it’s sometimes mixed with spandex or elastane.


Semi-synthetic fibers are derived from natural cellulose or protein but require more processing than natural fibers to be transformed into a textile material. This process imbues these fibers with unique characteristics that combine the best features of both natural and synthetic fibers.


Rayon, for example, is a semi-synthetic fiber made from reconstituted cellulose, typically derived from wood pulp. It exhibits comfortable softness and excellent moisture absorption, similar to natural fibers like cotton or bamboo, making it a popular choice for lingerie. Modal and lyocell, often marketed under the brand name Tencel, are types of rayon that offer additional strength, sustainability, and luxurious drape.


Blue and white woven linen fabric
Linen

Semi-synthetic fibers can also be more eco-friendly than purely synthetic fibers. While they require chemical processing, they are derived from renewable sources and are more biodegradable than purely synthetic fibers. The sustainability of all fibers heavily depends on the manufacturing process, so it's important to source from suppliers who prioritize eco-friendly practices.


Take a look at the below to better understand your fiber options. Remember this is not a comprehensive list, so there are of course other options out there—the sky is the limit.


Fiber

Type

Properties

Best For

Origin Countries

Cost

Sustainable Options

Comments

Bamboo

Natural

Softness, breathability, antimicrobial

Lingerie

China, India

$$

Organic Bamboo

Gaining popularity due to its sustainable characteristics

Cotton

Natural

Softness, breathability, comfort

Lingerie

USA, India, China

$$

Organic Cotton

Universal textile used in a variety of garments

Linen

Natural

Lightweight, breathable, natural

Lingerie

Belgium, Ireland, France

$$

Organic Linen

Excellent for warm climates and known for its durability

Nylon

Synthetic

Strength, durability, resilience

Swimwear

USA, China, India

$$

Recycled Nylon

Often used in performance and swim fabrics

Polyester

Synthetic

Durable, quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant

Swimwear

China, India, USA

$

Recycled Polyester

Widely used in swimwear due to its resilience and colorfastness

Rayon

Semi-Synthetic

Softness, breathability, comfort

Lingerie

USA, India, China

$$

FSC Certified Rayon

Can also go by other names like modal or lyocell

Silk

Natural

Softness, breathability, luxury

Lingerie

China, India, Italy

$$$$

Peace Silk

Known for its luxurious feel and aesthetic appeal

Spandex

Synthetic

Stretch, contour, shape retention

Both

China, Korea, USA

$$

Recycled Spandex

Usually blended with other fibers, rarely used alone. Spandex is the name brand for elastane

4. Consider the Fabric Weight:
Nude powermesh fabric
Powermesh

Before you consider fabric weight, you must understand how we measure it. Instead of measuring fabric weight in pounds or ounces, we typically measure fabric via grams per square meter or GSM.


This method of measuring is used to gauge the weight and thickness of the fabric. Higher GSM values correspond to a heavier and typically more durable fabric, while lower GSM values correspond to a lighter and potentially less durable fabric.


Understanding GSM in fabric can help you determine the quality and durability of the material. Fabrics with a high GSM tend to be more durable, warmer, and heavier, making them ideal for items like outerwear or upholstery. Conversely, fabrics with a low GSM tend to be lighter and more breathable, which is desirable for items like summer clothing or lightweight underwear.


Your fabric weight should coordinate with the garment's purpose and construction details. You want to consider all the materials together in a garment and wouldn’t want any element to overpower another.


Bright red allover lace with graphic leaf motif
Allover Lace

For example, suppose you use a super heavy mesh with a super lightweight lace. It might feel out of balance like the materials are fighting each other when on the body. The garment may feel like it will tear at any moment if they are drastically different weights. The same can be true for swimwear — if you use a really strong outer fabric and a very wimpy lining, the outside of the garment is likely to overpower the lining and you may end up with an odd fit.


It's also important to note that while GSM is a helpful indicator, it's not the only factor to consider when determining a fabric's quality and appropriateness for a particular use. Other factors such as the type of material, the weave, and the finish also play significant roles.


The weight also affects the fabric opacity, so you will want to increase the weight for a more covering, less transparent garment. In contrast, the weight should go down for a more sheer, lighter, and less opaque garment.

Fabric Type

Standard GSM

Opacity Level

Swimwear Tricot

160 to 200 gsm

Fully Opaque

Swimwear Helenca Lining

120 to 160 gsm

Semi Sheer

Lightweight Mesh

40 to 100 gsm

Sheer

Powermesh

100 to 160 gsm

Semi Sheer

Tulle

20 to 40 gsm

Ultra Sheer

Microfiber

120 to 180 gsm

Mostly Opaque

Knit Jersey

120 to 280 gsm

Mostly Opaque

Georgette

60 to 120 gsm

Semi Sheer

Satin

80 to 140 gsm

Opaque

Cotton Lawn

90 to 160 gsm

Semi Sheer



Generally, lighter-weight fabrics like mesh, tulle, and lace are well-suited for delicate lingerie pieces. Other suggested lingerie and intimate apparel materials: modal, satin, georgette, and embroidery.


Swimwear is designed with a specific purpose and end use; it has to spend time in chlorine and salt water while being super stretchy and durable. It's often somewhat structured, requiring heavier, sturdier fabrics designed with man-made fibers.



5. Check Stretch and Rigidity:
Black, bold, graphic, and floral galloon lace
Galloon Lace

Both rigid and stretchy fabrics work in intimates and lingerie. Understanding the limitations of both is what is most important for this area.


A rigid material like embroidery on tulle can be well suited for bras, bralettes, panties, and other lingerie pieces, assuming you add a stretchy mesh to the back to help it fit snugly around the body. The problem with rigid material is that it limits the size flexibility of your garment. Given there is no stretch, the material can be pretty unforgiving if you aren't a great fit for the style and shape. Rigid materials can be an excellent option to create and direct the overall shape with more structure.


You can add stretch without elastic or spandex by knitting the material to have 'mechanical stretch,' but there are limitations to this type of stretch. Often, this mechanical doesn't have strong stretch or great recovery after being stretched.


Materials created with elastic or spandex are usually more stretchy than items with only mechanical stretch. Elastic materials also tend to make a garment more comfortable as they provide ease around the body's curves. Stretchy materials like mesh, knits, galloon laces, and swimwear tricots are better for size flexibility as they make a garment more fit-flexible. Stretchier materials often mean the garment works on more bodies and silhouettes.


6. Consider Additional Qualities:

If you're designing a functional sports bra or active swimwear that needs extra performance abilities, you might need fabric with additional features such as moisture-wicking, quick-drying, or UV protection properties. There are many different types of fabric treatments, finishes, and washes you can leverage in the fabric development process to improve hand feel, increase overall durability, or adjust the appearance.

Light pink Jersey Knit fabric
Jersey Knit

Depending on your unique selling point, you might need to do further research to try and meet your customers' needs. Additional qualities like this are often picked up on by subtle cues, so pay attention to the small details as you evaluate your choices and throughout the development process.





7. Plan for Cost and Availability:
Lilac satin fabric
Satin

An all-to-forgotten step in sourcing-ensure the fabric fits within your budget and is readily available! It's terrible to fall in love with something you can't afford, but sometimes having a 'dream' quality fabric to use as a sourcing guide can be an excellent starting point.


Remember to check in with your fabric supplier to confirm they can provide the necessary quantities for sampling and bulk orders and that the fees fall within your budget.


8. Where to Source Your Fabric?

Once you clearly understand what you need, the next step is to find the suppliers that might be able to meet your needs. We've already discussed this in a previous post, so check this out here:


In conclusion, selecting the perfect fabric for lingerie and swimwear is a critical step in the design process that requires consideration of both aesthetics and functionality. It is worth taking the time to choose the right fiber composition, fabric weight, stretch, and additional features to ensure the final product matches your design intent.


Remember to also keep your budget in mind and communicate your needs clearly with suppliers to avoid any unexpected surprises. With these tips in mind, you can confidently select the ideal fabrics for your lingerie and swimwear designs and create pieces that will stand the test of time while making your customers feel confident and empowered in their own skin.


Do you have any questions or experiences with sourcing fabric for your lingerie or swimwear designs? Share your thoughts in the comments below or email us at kris@kndrsn.com.



Want to ensure that you're sourcing the perfect materials for your fashion brand? Grab the Fabric + Trims Sourcing Tracker!🌟



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